Dear friends,
I lost my wallet the other day. I had a surgical procedure and, long story short, accidentally left it in a bag designated for trash. It’s the sort of thing that oftentimes would upset me. This time, however, I brushed it off as an inconvenience. What made the difference? The rest of the experience was so positive. The procedure went smoothly, and my caregivers were excellent. I was treated with care and kindness, treated as a person.
I’ve been reflecting on how that translates in the restaurant business. A couple weeks ago, I read an article in the New York Times by Pete Wells, their recently retired food critic. I always respected the commitment and fairness in his work, and related maybe too much to tales of over-consumption. His editorial— “I reviewed restaurants for 12 years. They’ve changed and not for the better.” —got my attention.
Realistically, our business is not as easy as it was. Mr. Wells wrote of the basic issues we all face: hiring, training, prices, and myriad external pressures. The primary focus, though, was his sense that restaurants aren’t as personal anymore, and—of critical importance—they should be. Specifically, he observed that many restaurants never answer the phone, and some don’t even have numbers to call.
Thinking a little further back, in 1980 I was dining with friends from The Chef’s Garden at the London Chop House in Detroit, Michigan, a stalwart restaurant for decades. That night, I had a long conversation with Lester Gruber, the remaining owner. Times were not easy for him or the restaurant in 1980, which he ultimately sold in 1982. He spoke lovingly of the 1940s-1960s, saying simply, it was so easy then.
In 1980, I felt in my soul that the restaurant industry was not that hard for me. Suffice it to say I’ve learned a lot since then. A constant guidepost for me, though, has been my commitment to keeping it personal.
In my book Kitchen Privileges I wrote about opening Ridgway Bar & Grill, and the significance of my name being on the door. It was personal in 1971 on day one of the Wurst Place, in 1990 when Bayside opened, in 2001 for Ridgway’s first day, and is still that way today. Wynne and I talk endlessly about this side of our business. At our restaurants, we answer our phones. True, the front-of-house staff seems to get younger and younger. Training is definitely more of a consideration than it used to be.
I strongly believe that, in an age when everything has become more impersonal, our industry has a responsibility to make the restaurant table a place of conversation and the service and reception personal. I accept that responsibility.
Ready for an excuse to get out and celebrate what we all love about the dining experience? Sizzle Dining begins at Bayside and Ridgway on Thursday, September 5 and runs through September 25. This annual event is a great time to try new restaurants, or love your favorites, for terrific value. We also appreciate that it supports a local children’s charity.
On September 26, we’ll give our summer 3-course prix fixe menus a last hurrah, then launch our new seasonal menus on Friday, October 11. We’re all ready for season to kick into gear!
Wynne and I head to Vermont this weekend for our annual September respite. I look forward to seeing you back in town at the end of the month. With thanks and gratitude for these 53 years of personal friendship, and to the many generations who have dined with us.
Your friend,
Tony
